Two themes emerge: Biker and Romantic Army. Different takes on strong design, both featuring the very finest in the textile research and material mix category.
The woman capturing the Biker mood signals very much of a fashion-forward style all about cool contrasts and fresh inter-plays. Ergo the mannish motorcycle jacket comes in novel pink and green editions complete with precious trim, while the black patent leather option plays with white contrast detailing. Pants too have lots of fabric mix fun, as in a yarn-dyed check or neoprene front and a total denim back. Further enhancing the look is the opposition between baggy top and skinny bottom. The Romantic Army theme has a dual soul: on the one hand, a ‘90s grunge spirit and punk rock femininity à la Courtney Love and on the other, ethnic print colours and graphic effects. All to create a slick sense of counterpoint: sweet vs bold, heavy vs light, pastel vs dark, glossy vs matte. Tiny floral prints join forces with the studded wool check shirt and also with the double-breasted dropped shoulder pea-coat in a typically mannish wool.
For men too, a fearless attitude with directional constructions, slim fits and latest-generation fabric mixes are the way to go. The Biker mood comes directly from an on-the-road culture, so the materials are sturdy, the colours deep with hints of wine red and melange grey. Leather, ultra dark denim and derma-fleece clearly set the tone. Motorcycle jackets alternate between all-time favourite leather and easy nylon versions, bomber jackets come in wool & nylon or in leather & wool. Distressed loose-fitting slub jersey t-shirts may present an uneven dye job, but the biker graphics with precise embroidery, cross-stitch and glitter trim add a unique premium appeal. The Army theme talks about an interplay of grunge and preppy influences, softer fits, thick weaves, warm wools, yarn-dyed fabrics, a palette of shades ranging from khaki green to navy blue to Bordeaux. An ample selection of shirts makes the most of matelassé textures, check pattern combos, double fabrics, rivets, embroideries and prints. Sweaters are perfect for winter.
The Fall-Winter 2014/15 denim collection at once focuses attention on materials and keeps pursuing a skinny and boyish fit path for women and skinny and carrot options for men.
In particular, power stretch, super stretch, comfort and non-stretch denim fabrics in heavier weights for better shape retention mark the season’s idea of feminine jeans. Green and red casts plus many shades of black heighten the impact, as do partial or total faux-leather, textile coating/lamination and surface treatments. The material mix concept – in this case denim & neoprene – continues to play an important role. Also for the slim fit jacket, skirt and dress, in a check pattern or yarn-dyed fabric with laser striping.
For guys the accent is on non-stretch and comfort denims to ensure utmost ease of motion. Along these lines, in addition to ergonomic cuts, the new 14.5 ounce denim with a soft, thick texture thanks to the inclusion of a Lycra fibre surely fits the bill. On the chromatic front, once again green and red casts plus all hues of black tell the story, while bright indigo broken twills and plated blue/black effects complete the picture. As for destroyed jeans, they now have smaller rips, otherwise mended or patched holes.
Deserving of special mention is Time Shade, a micro men’s capsule collection that features an unusual interplay between untreated/unwashed and distressed denim fabrics. Jeans, shirt and skinny jackets all make a strong graphic impression by alternating the two: namely, “worn & torn” denim in front and raw denim in back (or vice versa), or top part in “worn & torn” denim and bottom part in raw denim.